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Even today, the French Riviera still cultivates its image of dreams and luxury as a Mediterranean paradise for celebrities, palace hotels and legendary beaches. It is easy to forget that, further inland, there are mountains and valleys packed with tiny villages that have lost none of their authenticity.

aston grand hotel nice france french riviera nizza la bellahe French dictionary "Le Petit Robert" is quite categorical: the Côte d'Azur, or French Riviera, stretches from Cassis, in the Bouches-du-Rhône, to Menton, in the Alpes-Maritimes. And yet, the real French Riviera, the one that has delighted crowned heads of state, artists and celebrities since the 18th century, begins only at Saint-Tropez, from where it unfolds over three hundred kilometres of jagged coastline through the Alpes-Maritimes as far as the Italian border, highlighted by such gems as Nice, Cannes, Saint-Paul-de-Vence and Roquebrune-Cap-Martin.

The story of the French Riviera began in 1750, well before the County of Nice was assigned to France in 1860. Nice's mild winters began to attract the British aristocracy, who travelled to the coast to treat their respiratory ailments. Very soon, with the arrival of the railway line in Nice, in 1864, and Menton, in 1869, the "winter crowd" of British, Russians, Italians and Germans came in ever greater numbers. From 22,000 in 1864, their numbers swelled to 150,000 by 1914. Twenty years later, the Americans launched the fashion for swimming in the sea and so Nice became a seaside resort. The German philosopher Friedrich Nietzsche (1844-1900) once wrote: "As for the colours of Nice! I do so wish I could peel them off and send them to you; they seem to have been strained through a silver sieve and rendered immaterial, almost spirit-like."

Nietzsche was not the only one to fall in love with this "French paradise", for the French Riviera is a great seductress. It has won over the hearts of many painters, from Impressionists such as Renoir, Monet and Signac to modern painters such as Picasso, Léger, Braque and Miró. Henri Matisse, who suffered from bronchitis, moved to Nice, in 1917, where he painted bright canvases drenched in the luxurious colours of the Midi. American authors such as Scott Fitzgerald (1896-1940), who wrote The Great Gatsby, and British writers such as Somerset Maugham (1874-1965) were also irresistibly drawn to the Coast.

Many years after the death, in Cannes in 1870, of the French author, Prosper Mérimée, the creator of Carmen, and after the great novelist Colette had taken up her summer residence near the tiny harbour town of Saint-Tropez, André Gide (1869-1951) succumbed to the charms of the village of Saint-Paul-de-Vence, near Grasse. Even to this day, the Hotel-Restaurant La Colombe d'Or, built on the village square of this ancient 16th century fortified hamlet, still welcomes contemporary artists retracing the footsteps of the Hotel's first guests, Picasso, Modigliani and Greta Garbo. While the days may be gone when French cinema's most loved couple, Simone Signoret and Yves Montand, celebrated their wedding there, the owners of La Colombe d'Or still play host to some of show-business's most celebrated names, such as Elizabeth Taylor and Daniel Auteuil.

The Coast of a thousand charms

massena hotel nice france
Colourful Italian-style façades in the old part of Nice.

What, then, is so special about the French Riviera? Does it owe its success to Nice, with its mansions, its hotels and its turn-of-the-century apartment buildings, its trompe-l'oeil façades painted last century by Piedmontese masters, its brightly flowered avenues lined with palm trees (there are said to be a dozen palm tree varieties in the Alpes-Maritimes departement) and the unique Promenade des Anglais? Does it attribute its charm to Cannes, a summer seaside resort since 1930, with its beautiful sandy beaches, the venue of the greatest international film festival since 1946. South-east of the famous Promenade de la Croisette, the visitor is left to gaze, in a dream, at the islands of Lérins, at Sainte-Marguerite and Saint-Honorat, which features one of the oldest monasteries in the Western World. Does it owe its reputation to the Principality of Monaco, one of the smallest sovereign states in the world, huddled on 370 acres, a gambling stronghold and tax haven all in one, renowned for its Formula I Grand Prix and the Monte Carlo Rally?

Does it owe its dreams to Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat, the millionaires' peninsula? It was in this former fishing hamlet that two financiers created the first luxury estates in 1896. Since then, Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat has witnessed the building of sublime properties, including the Ephrussi-de-Rothschild Villa, built at the turn of the century. Now open to the public, this mansion has become a veritable villa-museum, with its precious collections of porcelain, its tapestries and paintings as well as unique collection of drawings by Fragonard (Tel.: (+33) 93 01 01 04).

But don't be misled: this land has by no means given up its authenticity. In the Mercantour National Park, even the novice hiker will soon discover the wild and natural face of the Alpes-Maritimes. In this protected habitat covering over 160,000 acres, chamois roam freely across valleys and high mountains. Royal eagles circle silently over forests, moors, meadows and screes. The terrain itself has been marked for easier access to the Park's two valleys, the Merveilles Valley and Val de Fontanalba. In the Merveilles Valley, for instance, ramblers will come face to face with hundreds of drawings depicting cattle, weapons, tools and even geometric figures, etched into the rock some 1,800 years B.C.

The secrets of the hinterland

negresco hotel nice france wedding french rivieraThe geopolitical situation of the Alpes-Maritimes, which, in the past, has been coveted by many a kingdom, forced its inhabitants to repair to isolated sites, often perched up high in defensive positions, as exemplified by the many villages around Nice and Grasse, which seem to cling to their rocky spurs. Up in the highlands behind Nice, the little town of Contes still has remains of its ramparts, with a postern gate and rampart walk. Coaraze, now the haunt of craftsmen of many trades: leather, pewter, engraving and silk-screen printing, jealously harbours a collection of sundials, signed in particular by the writer and poet Jean Cocteau. In the Red gorges area, to the north-west of the Alpes-Maritimes, Péone reigns supreme along the banks of the Tuébi torrent. Its alpine and Italian-style houses nestle up against the Penitents' Rocks, huge standing stones, tall and pointed. The village is full of chapels and places of worship, and each year, in June, it celebrates the shepherds' fête. Those who set off to discover the French Riviera will not be disappointed for it has many cultural treasures to offer. Take, for instance, the many works of art on display throughout the museums along the Côte d'Azur, a telling sign that the world's greatest ever artists are still kept in thrall by its azure dreams. Corinne Tonarelli

Deluxe hotels

A guest staying at the Carlton International Hotel in Cannes, one of the most luxurious in the world, once asked the Concierge for 100 kilometres of barbed wire to fence off his house. For, indeed, the hotels along the French Riviera live in a world of extremes, extreme luxury, comfort and prices. At Monaco, the Hôtel de Paris has a wine cellar built into the rock face, with some 25,000 bottles of the best vintages laid down over one kilometre of bottle racks. The Martinez in Cannes, the largest hotel along the Coast, has 430 rooms, including 18 suites entirely decorated in the purest Art Déco style. The Negresco in Nice boasts a colossal façade facing the sea, flanked by two large towers, the right-hand one topped by a candy-pink dome.

Built for the most part at the Belle-Epoque, these hotels attracted many of Europe's crowned heads during the 1900s. With the exception of the Carlton, which has retained its royal patronage, the grand hotels on the French Riviera now lodge stars and journalists and, since the eighties, they have focused on business and conference tourism. In 1995, the luxury hotel trade registered 2,400,000 overnight stays in the Alpes-Maritimes and Monaco, an impressive figure that has remained virtually unchanged over the last ten years.



Artists have been falling in love with the French Riviera for centuries. Their influence and work are clear for all to see in almost seventy museums and one hundred art galleries. Here, then, is an itinerary of some of the more contemporary artists, from Antibes - Juan-les-Pins to Menton.

  • Picasso Museum at Antibes-Juan-les-Pins: Open since 1949 on the ramparts of the old part of Antibes, the Museum has more than 260 works by Picasso as well as Francis Picabia, Nicolas de Staël, Hans Hartung and Balthus. Picasso enthusiasts will find some of his most famous works there: The Joy of Life, Ulysses and the Sirens, Woman in an Armchair. Tel.: (+33) 92 90 54 20.
     
  • The Maeght Foundation at Saint-Paul-de-Vence: "To create an environment in which modern art could find both its place and that nether world that used to be called the supernatural." The art dealer Aimé Maeght and his wife Marguerite won their challenge by establishing, in 1964, the Maeght Foundation, a veritable artistic refuge for modern art's greatest painters and sculptors. In a pink and white building, designed by the Catalan architect José-Luis Sert outside the village, which also involved the work of artists such as Miró and Chagall, you will discover works by Bonnard, Kandinsky, Chagall and Braque as well as sculptures and mosaics signed by Giacometti, Arp, Calder and Barbara Hepworth, set in superb gardens. Fondation Maeght, Avenue des Tourettes, 06570 Saint-Paul [+33] 93 32 81 63
  • Matisse Museum in Nice: Up on the Cimiez hilltop, in an 18th century villa, the permanent Matisse exhibition features more than 60 paintings and gouache cutouts, 400 drawings and engravings, 57 sculptures, 14 illustrated books and almost a hundred photographs as well as a multitude of personal objects belonging to the artist. Tel.: (+33) 93 81 08 08.
     
  • Chagall Museum in Nice: Canvases, drawings, gouaches, sculptures, stained glass and mosaics make up the most important collection of works by the French artist of Russian origin. Tel.: (+33) 93 81 75 75.
     
  • Contemporary Art Museum in Nice: Set in a complex of four marble-clad towers interconnected by glass walkways, the Museum focuses on works of pop art and new realism, with creations by Niki de Saint-Phalle, Jean Tinguely, Andy Warhol. The "School of Nice" is also represented with Yves Klein, César and Arman. Tel.: (+33) 93 62 61 62.
     
  • Cocteau Museum in Menton: Jean Cocteau, who decorated the marriage hall at Menton town hall, chose the Bastion, a 17th century monument, to exhibit his works. The artist himself decorated the Museum with a multitude of mosaics, the most famous of which are the Menton couple and the Salamander. Tel.: (+33) 93 37 78 78

chateau des ollieres hotel nice france wedding french riviera"The battle commences: confetti is hurled by the handful, entire bags are emptied on people's heads; paper streamers fizz through the air with their multicoloured spirals." Such are the enthusiastic words of the French writer Gaston Leroux, written in 1927 about the Nice Carnival. This popular fête, celebrated each year during the second half of February, lasts twelve days and ends with a firework display and the famous battle of flowers. It symbolises the joie de vivre typical of the towns and villages of the French Riviera, both summer and winter, with its abundance of festivities and festivals including: The Cannes Jazz Festival (July), which plays host to the great names of jazz. Over ten days, parades of music criss-cross all the town's districts, from apéritif time to nightfall, among the provençal markets and the boutiques. Tel. (+33) 93 39 01 01. The Lyrical Art Festival, music in the heart of Antibes (July), which, for seven years, has been the meeting place for international divas and young talents. Tel.: (+33) 92 90 54 63. The International Jazz Festival at Juan-les-Pins (July): Tel.: (+33) 92 90 53 00. The square boules world championships (25 August) on the Bourgade slope at Cagnes-sur-Mer. Some seventeen years ago, the circle of the friends of Cagnes-sur-Mer created this bizarre boules contest, which now even has followers in Japan. The game is played down or up a slope, using coloured wooden boules (obtained exclusively from the organisers). Tel.: (+33) 93 73 53 72. To obtain the full list of all the festivities along the French Riviera, contact the Regional Tourist Committee at (+33) 93 37 78 78.
We recommend 4 & 5 stars Deluxe hotels in Cannes, Nice, Monaco, Monte Carlo, Cap Ferrat, Roquebrune and St Tropez.
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